Marui

Departing from the contemporary trend for molten, jumbo-sized takoyaki, the draw at Marui in Taito Ward's Kiyokawa neighbourhood is an unpretentious octopus dumpling cooked thoroughly right through to the centre. Bite in and the aroma and sharp tang of red pickled ginger kneaded directly into the batter softly bloom across the palate, giving way to firmly textured octopus within. It is an honest, unfussy style of cooking that easily brings to mind the vintage charms of old neighborhood sweet shops and festival street carts.

Ordered through a small service window, the takoyaki are poured onto the hot griddle only after you place your request. Cooking takes around 10 to 15 minutes, so you can settle into a chair out front for a relaxed wait, or call ahead to arrange a pick-up time if you are in a rush. Beside the modest 8-piece portion, a generous 12-piece tray is on hand for hungrier moments, and freshly made okonomiyaki pancakes are displayed at the storefront as well.

In the summer months, fluffy shaved ice cranked by hand joins the lineup, turning the brief wait into part of the visit's easygoing neighbourhood charm. The best approach is simply to take the freshly wrapped, steaming package directly home while it is still warm from the griddle.